S.Aishwariya amakambirana za kudumpha kwa nsalu zaukadaulo, zatsopano zaposachedwa komanso kuthekera kwawo kokulirakulira pamsika wamafashoni ndi zovala.
Ulendo Wa Nsalu Zovala
1. Ulusi wa nsalu wa m'badwo woyamba unali umene unagulidwa mwachindunji kuchokera ku chilengedwe ndipo nthawi imeneyo inakhala zaka 4,000.M'badwo wachiwiri unali ndi ulusi wopangidwa ndi anthu monga nayiloni ndi poliyesitala, zomwe zidachitika chifukwa cha zoyesayesa zomwe akatswiri asayansi adachita mu 1950, kuti asinthe ndi zinthu zomwe zimafanana ndi ulusi wachilengedwe.Mbadwo wachitatu umaphatikizapo ulusi wochokera ku zachilengedwe zosagwiritsidwa ntchito mokwanira kuti zikwaniritse zosowa za anthu omwe akuchulukirachulukira.Izi sizongowonjezera kapena kuwonjezera pa ulusi wachilengedwe womwe ulipo, koma akukhulupirira kuti ali ndi mawonekedwe osiyanasiyana omwe angathandize m'malo osiyanasiyana ogwiritsira ntchito.Chifukwa chakusintha kwamakampani opanga nsalu, gawo laukadaulo la nsalu likukulirakulira m'machuma otukuka omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito m'magawo osiyanasiyana.
2. M'zaka zamakampani kuyambira 1775 mpaka 1850, kutulutsa ulusi wachilengedwe ndi kupanga kunali pachimake.Nthawi yapakati pa 1870 ndi 1980 idawonetsa chithunzithunzi cha kufufuza kwa ulusi wopangidwa kumapeto kwake komwe mawu oti 'nsalu zaukadaulo' adapangidwa.Patatha zaka khumi, zatsopano zambiri, kuphatikiza zida zosinthika, zopepuka zopepuka kwambiri, kuumba kwa 3D, zidasinthika pakupanga nsalu zanzeru.Zaka za m'ma 1900 zikuwonetsa nthawi yomwe masuti amlengalenga, maloboti, nsalu zodzitchinjiriza, gulu la electroluminescence, nsalu za chameleonic, zovala zowunikira thupi zimachita bwino pamalonda.
3. Ma polima opangidwa ali ndi kuthekera kwakukulu komanso magwiridwe antchito ambiri omwe amatha kuposa ulusi wachilengedwe.Mwachitsanzo, ma bio-polymers opangidwa kuchokera ku chimanga akhala akugwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri popanga ulusi waukadaulo wapamwamba wokhala ndi magwiridwe antchito apamwamba kwambiri omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu matewera owonongeka komanso osunthika.Njira zamakono zoterezi zapangitsa kuti ulusi womwe umasungunuka m'madzi ukhale wotheka, motero kuchepetsa kutaya m'mipope yaukhondo.Mapadi opangidwa ndi kompositi amapangidwa kuti azikhala ndi 100 peresenti ya zinthu zachilengedwe zomwe zimatha kuwonongeka.Kafukufukuyu asinthadi moyo wabwino.
Kafukufuku Wamakono
Nsalu wamba ndi zida zolukidwa kapena zoluka zomwe kugwiritsidwa ntchito kwake kumatengera zotsatira za mayeso.Mosiyana ndi izi, nsalu zaukadaulo zimapangidwa potengera zomwe ogwiritsa ntchito amagwiritsa ntchito.Ntchito zawo ndi monga masuti a zakuthambo, impso ndi mtima wochita kupanga, zovala zopha tizilombo kwa alimi, kupanga misewu, matumba oletsa kudyedwa kwa zipatso ndi mbalame ndi zipangizo zopakira bwino zotayira madzi.
Nthambi zosiyanasiyana za nsalu zamakono zimaphatikizapo zovala, zonyamula, masewera ndi zosangalatsa, zoyendera, zachipatala ndi zaukhondo, mafakitale, zosaoneka, oeko-nsalu, nyumba, chitetezo ndi chitetezo, zomangamanga ndi zomangamanga, geo-textiles ndi agro-textiles.
Poyerekeza momwe anthu amadyera ndi dziko lonse lapansi, India ili ndi gawo la 35 peresenti muzovala zogwirira ntchito muzovala ndi nsapato (clothtech), 21 peresenti munsalu zopangira mapaketi (packtech), ndi 8 peresenti pamasewera. nsalu (sporttech).Ena onse ndi 36 peresenti.Koma padziko lonse lapansi gawo lotsogola ndi nsalu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pomanga magalimoto, njanji, zombo, ndege ndi mlengalenga (mobiltech), yomwe ndi 25 peresenti ya msika wazovala zaukadaulo, zotsatiridwa ndi nsalu zamafakitale (indutech) pa 16 peresenti ndi sportech. pa 15 peresenti, ndi madera ena onse okhala ndi 44 peresenti.Zogulitsa zomwe zitha kupititsa patsogolo bizinesiyo ndi kuphatikiza malamba akumpando, matewera ndi zotayira, geotextiles, nsalu zotchingira moto, zovala zodzitchinjiriza, zosefera, zosalukidwa, zosungira ndi zizindikiro.
Mphamvu yayikulu kwambiri ku India ndi intaneti yake yayikulu komanso msika wamphamvu wapakhomo.Makampani opanga nsalu ku India adzuka ndi kuthekera kwakukulu kwa magawo aukadaulo komanso osaluka.Thandizo lamphamvu la boma kudzera mu ndondomeko, kukhazikitsidwa kwa malamulo oyenerera ndi chitukuko cha mayesero ndi miyezo yoyenera kungathandize kwambiri kukula kwa makampaniwa.Chofunikira chachikulu pa olali ndi cha antchito ophunzitsidwa bwino.Payenera kukhala mapulani ochulukirapo ophunzitsa ogwira ntchito ndikuyamba malo opangira ma incubation kuti ayese kuyesa kwa lab-to-land.
Zopereka zazikulu za mabungwe ochita kafukufuku m'dzikoli ndizoyamikirika kwambiri.Awa ndi Ahmedabad Textile Industry Research Association (ATIRA), Bombay Textile Research Association (BTRA), South India Textile Research Association (SITRA), Northern India Textile Research Association (NITRA), Wool Research Association (WRA), the Synthetic & Art Silk Mills' Research Association (SASMIRA) ndi Man-made Textile Research Association (MANTRA).Mapaki makumi atatu ndi atatu ophatikizika a nsalu, omwe akuphatikiza asanu ku Tamil Nadu, anayi ku Andhra Pradesh, asanu ku Karnataka, asanu ndi mmodzi ku Maharashtra, asanu ndi mmodzi ku Gujarat, asanu ndi mmodzi ku Gujarat, awiri ku Rajasthan, ndi amodzi ku Uttar Pradesh ndi West Bengal, akuyenera kugwira ntchito mogwirizana kuti abweretse. njira yonse yogulitsira pansi pa denga limodzi.4,5
Zithunzi za Geo-Textiles
Zovala zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kuphimba pansi kapena pansi zimagawidwa ngati geotextiles.Zovala zoterezi zimagwiritsidwa ntchito masiku ano pomanga nyumba, milatho, madamu ndi zipilala zomwe zimawonjezera moyo wawo.[6]
Nsalu Zozizira
Nsalu zamakono zopangidwa ndi Adidas zimathandiza kusunga kutentha kwa thupi pa madigiri 37 C. Zitsanzo ndizolemba monga Clima 365, Climaproof, Climalite zomwe zimakwaniritsa cholinga ichi.Elextex imakhala ndi zotchingira zigawo zisanu za nsalu zopangira ndi zotsekera zomwe zimapanga sensa yonse yogwira (1 cm2 kapena 1 mm2).Imatsimikiziridwa ndi Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) ndipo imatha kusokedwa, kupindika ndi kuchapa.Izi zili ndi kuchuluka kwakukulu muzovala zamasewera.
Biomimetics
Biomimetics ndi mapangidwe a zida zatsopano za ulusi, makina kapena makina kudzera mu kafukufuku wazinthu zamoyo, kuti aphunzire kuchokera kumayendedwe awo apamwamba kwambiri ndikuzigwiritsa ntchito pakupanga mamolekyu ndi zinthu.Mwachitsanzo, kutsanzira momwe tsamba la lotus limachitira ndi madontho amadzi;Pamwamba pake ndi monyanyira pang'ono ndipo amakutidwa ndi phula lokhala ngati phula lolimba kwambiri.
Madzi akagwera pamwamba pa tsamba, mpweya wotsekeka umapanga malire ndi madzi.Kulumikizana kwa madzi ndi kwakukulu chifukwa cha zinthu ngati sera.Komabe, zinthu zina monga mawonekedwe apamwamba zimakhudzanso kuthamangitsidwa.Chofunikira pakuthamangitsa madzi ndikuti ngodya yozungulira iyenera kukhala yochepera 10 digiri.Lingaliro ili limatengedwa ndikupangidwanso ngati nsalu.Zomwe zingatheke zimatha kuchepetsa khama pamasewera monga kusambira.
Zithunzi za Vivometric
Zida zamagetsi zomwe zimaphatikizidwa muzovala zimatha kuwerenga momwe thupi limakhudzira kugunda kwamtima, kuthamanga kwa magazi, kutenthedwa kwa ma calories, nthawi yopumira, masitepe omwe atengedwa ndi kuchuluka kwa okosijeni.Ili ndiye lingaliro la Vivometrics, lomwe limatchedwanso zovala zowunika thupi (BMG).Ikhoza kupulumutsa moyo wa wakhanda kapena wamasewera.
Mtundu wa Life wagonjetsa msika ndi vest yake yowunikira thupi.Imagwira ntchito ngati ambulansi ya nsalu posanthula ndikusintha kuti athandizidwe.Zambiri za cardio-pulmonary zimasonkhanitsidwa potengera ntchito ya mtima, kaimidwe, zolemba za ntchito pamodzi ndi kuthamanga kwa magazi, mpweya ndi mpweya wa carbon dioxide, kutentha kwa thupi ndi kayendedwe.Zimagwira ntchito ngati luso lalikulu pankhani yamasewera ndi nsalu zamankhwala.
Zovala za Camouflage
Malo osintha mtundu wa chameleon amawonedwa ndikupangidwanso muzovala.Nsalu zobisa zobisika za zinthu ndi anthu potengera malo ozungulira zidayambitsidwa pankhondo yachiwiri yapadziko lonse.Njirayi imagwiritsa ntchito ulusi womwe umathandiza kusakanikirana ndi kumbuyo, chinthu chomwe chingawonetsere kumbuyo ngati galasi komanso kukhala amphamvu ngati carbon.
Ulusiwu umagwiritsidwa ntchito limodzi ndi thonje ndi poliyesitala kupanga nsalu zobisika.Poyamba, mitundu iwiri yokha yokhala ndi mtundu ndi mawonekedwe ake idapangidwa kuti ifanane ndi nkhalango yowirira yokhala ndi mithunzi yobiriwira ndi yofiirira.Koma tsopano, mitundu isanu ndi iwiri idapangidwa ndi magwiridwe antchito abwino komanso chinyengo.Zimaphatikizapo katayanidwe, kusuntha, pamwamba, mawonekedwe, kuwala, silhouette ndi mthunzi.Ma parameters ndi ofunika kwambiri powona munthu ali patali.Kuwunika kwa nsalu zobisika kumakhala kovuta chifukwa kumasiyana ndi kuwala kwa dzuwa, chinyezi komanso nyengo.Chifukwa chake, anthu omwe ali ndi vuto lakhungu amalembedwa ntchito kuti azitha kuzindikira zinthu zomwe zimawonekera.Kusanthula kwamutu, kusanthula kwachulukidwe ndi thandizo la zida zamagetsi kumatengedwa kuti ayese zida.
Zovala Zotumiza Mankhwala
Kupita patsogolo kwamakampani azaumoyo tsopano akuphatikiza nsalu ndi mankhwala.
Zovala zimatha kugwiritsidwa ntchito kuti mankhwala azigwira bwino ntchito popereka njira yowongolera kutulutsa kwamankhwala kwanthawi yayitali komanso kupereka kuchuluka kwa mankhwala kumagulu omwe akuwunikiridwa popanda zovuta zoyipa.Mwachitsanzo, Ortho Evra transdermal contraceptive chigamba cha amayi ndi 20 cm kutalika, chimakhala ndi zigawo zitatu ndipo amavomerezedwa ndi US Food and Drug Administration.
Kugwiritsa Ntchito Gasi Kapena Plasma Pomaliza Zovala
Mchitidwewu unayamba mu 1960, pamene plasma idagwiritsidwa ntchito kusintha nsalu.Ndi gawo la zinthu zosiyana ndi zolimba, zamadzimadzi ndi mpweya ndipo sizilowerera pamagetsi.Awa ndi mpweya wopangidwa ndi ma electron, ma ion ndi tinthu tating'onoting'ono.Plasma ndi mpweya wopangidwa ndi mitundu yosalowerera ndale monga ma atomu okondwa, ma radicals aulere, tinthu tating'onoting'ono tomwe timakhala ndi ma electron ndi ma ion.Pali mitundu iwiri ya plasma: yotengera vacuum ndi kuthamanga kwamlengalenga.Pamwamba pa nsaluyo amapangidwa ndi bombardment ya electron, yomwe imapangidwa m'munda wamagetsi wa plasma.Ma electron amagunda pamwamba ndi kugawidwa kwakukulu kwa mphamvu ndi liwiro ndipo izi zimatsogolera ku gawo la unyolo pamwamba pa nsalu pamwamba pa nsalu, kupanga mtanda wogwirizanitsa potero kulimbikitsa zakuthupi.
Chithandizo cha plasma chimatsogolera ku etching kapena kuyeretsa pamwamba pa nsalu.Etching imawonjezera kuchuluka kwa malo omwe amapanga zokutira bwino.Madzi a m'magazi amakhudza chandamale ndipo ndi achindunji m'chilengedwe.Itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito mu nsalu za silika zomwe sizipangitsa kusintha kwa mawonekedwe a thupi la chandamale.Ma Aramids monga Kevlar, omwe amataya mphamvu akanyowa, amatha kuthandizidwa bwino ndi madzi a m'magazi kusiyana ndi njira wamba.Munthu angathenso kupereka katundu wosiyana kumbali iliyonse ya nsalu.Mbali imodzi ikhoza kukhala hydrophobic ndi ina hydrophilic.Chithandizo cha plasma chimagwira ntchito pazopanga zonse komanso ulusi wachilengedwe komanso kuchita bwino kwambiri polimbana ndi kufewetsa komanso kukana kukana kwa ubweya.
Mosiyana ndi kukonza kwachikhalidwe komwe kumafunikira njira zingapo kuti mugwiritse ntchito zomaliza zosiyanasiyana, plasma imalola kugwiritsa ntchito kumaliza kwamitundu ingapo mu sitepe imodzi komanso mosalekeza.Woolmark ili ndi patent ya teknoloji ya sensory perception (SPT) yomwe imawonjezera fungo ku nsalu.Kampani yaku US ya NanoHorizons' SmartSilver ndiukadaulo wotsogola popereka chitetezo chodana ndi fungo ndi antimicrobial ku ulusi wachilengedwe ndi nsalu zopanga.Odwala matenda a mtima Kumadzulo akuziziritsidwa m'hema wopumira mkati mwa opaleshoni kuti achepetse chiopsezo cha sitiroko pochepetsa kutentha kwa thupi.Bandeji yatsopano yachilengedwe yapangidwa pogwiritsa ntchito plasma protein fibrinogen.Popeza amapangidwa kuchokera ku magazi a munthu, bandejiyo siyenera kuchotsedwa.Amasungunuka pakhungu panthawi yochira.15
Sensory Perception Technology (SPT)
Tekinoloje iyi imagwira zonunkhiritsa, ma essence ndi zotsatira zina mu makapisozi ang'onoang'ono omwe amapaka nsalu.Makapisozi ang'onoang'ono awa ndi zotengera zazing'ono zokhala ndi zokutira zoteteza polima kapena chipolopolo cha melamine chomwe chimateteza zomwe zili mkati kuti zisafufutike, makutidwe ndi okosijeni komanso kuipitsidwa.Nsalu zimenezi zikagwiritsidwa ntchito, makapisozi ena amathyoka n’kutulutsa zimene zili mkatimo.
Microencapsulation
Ndi njira yosavuta yophatikizira kuyika zinthu zamadzimadzi kapena zolimba m'magawo ang'onoang'ono osindikizidwa (0.5-2,000 microns).Ma microcapsules awa amamasula pang'onopang'ono zinthu zogwira ntchito mwa kupukuta kosavuta komwe kumang'amba nembanemba.Izi zimagwiritsidwa ntchito popangira ma deodorants, lotions, utoto, zofewa za nsalu ndi zoletsa moto.
Electronic Textiles
Zida zamagetsi zovala monga jekete iyi ya ICD yochokera ku Philips ndi Levi, yokhala ndi foni yam'manja yomangidwira ndi chosewerera cha MP3, imayendera mabatire.Chovala chophatikizidwa ndi ukadaulo sichatsopano, koma kupita patsogolo kosalekeza kwa nsalu zanzeru kumapangitsa kuti zikhale zotheka, zofunika komanso zothandiza pakugwiritsa ntchito.Mawaya amasokedwa munsalu kuti alumikizane ndi zida zakutali ndipo maikolofoni imayikidwa mu kolala.Opanga ena ambiri pambuyo pake adapanga nsalu zanzeru zomwe zimabisa mawaya onse.
Shati yamtunda wautali inalinso luso lina losavuta losangalatsa.Lingaliro la e-textileli limagwira ntchito m'njira yoti munthu akadzikumbatira yekha t-shirt imawala.Idadziwika kuti ndi imodzi mwazinthu zosangalatsa zomwe zidapangidwa mu 2006. Zimapatsa wovalayo kumva kuti akukumbatiridwa.
Pamene kukumbatira kumatumizidwa ngati uthenga kapena kudzera mu bluetooth, masensa amachitirapo mwa kupanga kutentha, kugunda kwa mtima, kuthamanga, nthawi ya kukumbatirana ndi munthu weniweni weniweni.Shatiyi imachapidwanso zomwe zimapangitsa kuti anthu aziopa kunyalanyaza.Kupangidwa kwina, Elextex imakhala ndi zotchingira zigawo zisanu za nsalu zopangira ndi zotchingira zomwe zimapanga sensa yonse yogwira (1 cm2 kapena 1 mm2).Zitha kusokedwa, kupindika ndi kutsukidwa.19-24 Zonsezi zimatithandiza kumvetsetsa momwe zipangizo zamagetsi ndi nsalu zingagwirizanitsidwe kuti zikhale ndi moyo wabwino.
Nkhaniyi sinasinthidwe ndi ogwira ntchito ku XiangYu Garment idachokera ku https://www.technicaltextile.net/articles/tech-textile-innovations-8356
Nthawi yotumiza: Jul-11-2022